Savannah, Georgia

Sorry we’re a bit behind with the blog, but we’ve been too busy having fun. Anyway, Savannah was next on the list and we had a great time.

Savannah is one of the few cities in Georgia that was not damaged in the Civil War and, as a result, it retains much of its Southern charm. Even the airport could win a Cuteness Award! The buildings in the Old District have been, or are being, actively and lovingly restored to their former glory and the results are just beautiful. We spent many a day aimlessly wandering the streets admiring them. There are the odd exceptions of course. There was one was next to the bus stop we used frequently and with its always drawn, shiny dark green curtains, looked more like Bates Motel than Tara (references for oldies like us – apologies to younger readers).

The houses are impressive, but the real jewels in the crown of Savannah are the trees. Mhairi is a bit (massive!) of a tree geek, so she was in 7th heaven. Where do we start? Well, first of all, the sheer number of them. They are everywhere. Then there is the age of them, some are even older than us, and that’s saying something. There is also a massive variety, but they do share one thing in common – Spanish moss. This moss, which Wikipedia informs us is an epiphytic flowering plant (obviously), but is neither Spanish, nor is it a lichen or moss, grows on nearly all the trees in Savannah and the town is synonomous with images of moss draped parks and squares.

This brings us nicely on to the state of the pavements. Because the trees are old and given the respect Mhairi feels they deserve, their roots are prolific and wreck the pavements, ripping through concrete like Bruce Banner rips his freshly ironed shirts. The result of this is that walking on the pavements is genuinely hazardous, and add to this the fact that you’re always looking at the beauty surrounding you, it’s a miracle that we survived without breaking a few bones. Which is what makes this photo so ironic. There was a very small patch of the flattest, smooth as a millpond, pavement with this sign at either end. Everywhere else, it was chaos, with no disclaimers. Heaven only knows how pedestrians with stollers or mobility issues cope.

Some things were impressive, some not so. On the impressive side, we have the world’s tallest IMAX. We went there to see Gladiator 2, which was amazing, but we’re not sure whether the screen was the tallest IMAX, or the building itself. We didn’t really care because the film was great, the seats were comfy and they served Angry Orchard and had cup holders galore. Another impressive feature of the city is the river. The Port of Savannah is the 3rd busiest seaport in the US, and the massive ships that majestically sail past the riverfront area are a sight to behold. On the not so impressive side is the botanical gardens. We love a botanical garden (Mhairi’s geekish fascination with trees) and always try to visit when possible. We walked 3 miles in the heat to reach this one. It was about the size of the Glebe Park in Maybole and half as interesting. The only highlight was the Dolly Parton bush.

As you know, we love a museum. JW Marriott have taken over an abandoned power station in the old town and repurposed it as a high-end hotel, with a museum in the lobby. They even have a lifesized dinasaur skeleton hanging from the ceiling, although I doubt any real skeletons are made of silver.

Another great museum was the Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil Rights Museum on MLK Jr Boulevard. We took a guided tour, which brought to life the challenges faced by African Americans who were subject to the Jim Crow laws which enforced a system of racial segregation.

One of the methods used to force change involved a 14-month boycott of the shops in the main street who practised segregation. With no shops available to buy goods, people brought old clothes and goods they no longer needed to local churches where they were redistributed within the community. Along with many sit-ins at lunch counters, some local youngsters arranged a wade-in at a whites only beach in nearby Tybee Island. As the police approached them, they walked further into the sea, with the police following them, in full uniform. They eventually had to surrender themselves when they got in too deep, but this really highlights the courage of those fighting the barabaric segregation.

This visit was incredibly thought provoking. We can look back now and think how shocking segregation was and tell ourselves that of course we would have been against it. But would we have actively supported the protesters, or sat in the comfort of our priviledged position and said “well done”? I’d like to hope that it would be the former, but am grateful that I never had to find out just how courageous, or not, I really am.

It was Memorial Day when we were in Savannah. Things are different in America, that’s for sure. Not for them the solemn, dark clothed ceremonies, remembering the war dead as we do in the UK. No, they have a parade, and make a party of it to honour their Services. It was quite a spectacle, and fun to watch.